Whether you learn from the “experts,” or you learn from personal experience, there is almost always two sides to every story.
For example, several weeks ago, I posted a link to an article about Western Back Saws that was originally published in Woodsmith. The two back saws that were profiled are top-of-the-line saws designed for those seeking a hand tool that will last a lifetime. Several good points were made for why these types of saws may be worth the extra expense.
But then, a few days after that post, I got an email from Paul Sellers, who started his professional woodworking career in 1965. Paul is now the director of woodworking at the Homestead Heritage School of Woodworking in Waco, Texas. He’s also written several woodworking articles for Woodwork magazine, among others.
Paul was worried the article might lead a beginner to think it’s necessary to buy a $125 saw with a machined back just to cut joinery. In his experience, there are perfectly good saws that are inexpensive and do every bit as good a job as an expensive saw. I’ll let his comments do his talking for him. And I’d like to hear your feelings on this as well.
Paul brings up some good points. I would like to mention that Lie-Nielsen is very good about providing “Use & Care Instructions” for all of their products. In the sharpening instructions, they make no mention of special or proprietary tools needed to sharpen their saws. They suggest beginners use a 4″ extra slim taper file to sharpen their saws, along with fairly detailed instructions on how to do it, although some pictures or illustrations would be helpful. As Paul mentioned, they do provide professional sharpening services for only $15 plus shipping to Maine.
As for Adria, they also provide simple instructions for sharpening their saws, but explain that their saws should require very infrequent sharpening since the blade is made out of the best steel available. An address for a professional sharpening service is provided on their website, but no cost for the sharpening is mentioned.
(Note: Paul mentioned in a follow up email that Adria’s sharpening statement bears questioning, simply because saws demand sharpening according to levels of use regardless of steel quality. If the steel is too hard then they will be difficult to sharpen with a regular saw file. So the steel needs to be of sufficient hardness to hold a good edge and yet sufficiently soft enough to facilitate sharpening using hand methods.)
So, which camp do you belong in? Are you the type who refuses to cut dovetails unless you’re using a top-of-the-line dovetail saw? Or are you perfectly happy with a less-expensive saw from the hobby store? The difference could mean around $100 or more in your pocket.